Borraines (Borage Fritters)
Chef Pep Moreno of Deliranto restaurant has taken on three recipes, two of which are traditional sweets deeply rooted in festive celebrations. More than simple dishes, these recipes evoke a shared gastronomic memory, recalling the sweets associated with local festivals and the Christmas season. Alongside the challenge of preserving this collective heritage comes the complexity of updating recipes whose original preparations are marked by their simplicity.
The result is a series of creations that evoke different sensory experiences: in the case of borraines, it is the visual memory of the traditional sweet that is brought to the fore, while panoli and empedrat seek to capture a flavour, a moment in time, despite being presented in a markedly different form.
VIDEO RECIPE
METHOD
In this reinterpretation of borraines, the aim is to preserve the dish’s essential vegetal character. To achieve this, chard leaves are used in place of borage and are crystallised to create a texture reminiscent of the original preparation, while producing a more delicate and refined result.
The crystallisation is achieved using a specialised sugar known as mannitol, a sugar alcohol that, when heated, allows the vegetable to be crystallised directly without the need for blanching or any other preliminary treatment. This technique preserves the integrity of the leaf, so that when it is bitten into, its natural flavour can be clearly perceived.
The dish is accompanied by a light cream inspired by crema catalana or pastry cream, infused with orange and lime to bring freshness and a delicate citrus note. This cream serves as the base upon which the various elements of the dish are assembled.
The crystallised chard leaf is placed on top of the cream, serving as the reinterpretation of the traditional borraina. To give the dish a more festive appearance, it is garnished with thin, crisp wafers reminiscent of neules, evoking the sweets traditionally associated with Christmas while adding a contrasting texture. Stevia leaves are also incorporated, contributing a natural sweetness with subtle minty notes that help to balance the flavours.
Finally, to intensify the citrus aroma, a small amount of finely grated lime zest is added. This provides freshness and fragrance, bringing the dish into balance and completing the overall composition.
