BACALLÀ EN SUC (Salt Cod in Rich Sauce)
Joan Capilla, chef and owner of Algadir restaurant, has chosen to work with three dishes that hold a strong place in the culinary identity of Tortosa. The first is salt cod in suquet, a dish that evokes both the local market tradition and the festive context of Holy Week. The second is rice with cabbage and beans, a hearty one-pot dish that is emblematic not only of Tortosa but also of much of the Ebro Delta region. Finally, he revisits manjar blanco, a preparation that transports us to a distant culinary past and which today survives primarily as a dessert.
Through these dishes, Capilla explores different layers of the region’s gastronomic heritage, reinterpreting traditional recipes while preserving the flavours, memories and cultural significance that have made them enduring symbols of the local cuisine.
VIDEO RECIPE
Elaboración
This dish is inspired by the traditional bacallà en suc (salt cod in rich sauce), a preparation deeply rooted in the local culinary heritage. While remaining faithful to the essence of the original recipe, it incorporates a number of contemporary techniques to offer a refined interpretation of the classic dish. The preparation relies on a selection of simple yet highly representative ingredients: salt cod, rice flour, tomato, onion, confit artichokes, bay leaf and a low-temperature egg. All are worked with olive oil produced in the local area, further reinforcing the dish’s strong connection to its territory and traditions.
The preparation begins by heating the olive oil, in which the salt cod—previously coated in rice flour—is lightly seared. The rice flour provides a lighter, crisper texture than conventional flour, enhancing both the appearance and the final texture of the fish.
In the same oil, finely chopped garlic is added, providing the aromatic foundation upon which the sauce is built. The onion is then incorporated and gently sautéed until it becomes soft and succulent. Next, the tomato is added, bringing acidity and balance to the preparation while contributing depth and richness to the overall flavour.
To enrich the preparation, a light stock made from the salt cod’s own bones and skin is added, making full use of the ingredient while enhancing its flavour. Once the sofregit has become well concentrated, it is blended until a smooth, homogeneous sauce is obtained.
Once the base is ready, the salt cod is returned to the sauce and cooked for only a few minutes—approximately four—to preserve its succulence and prevent overcooking. This brief cooking time ensures that the fish retains its delicate texture while allowing it to absorb the flavours of the sauce.
The artichokes are then added. They have been previously confited in olive oil at a low temperature, around 65°C, a process that preserves their delicate texture while enhancing their natural flavour. This gentle cooking method allows the artichokes to remain tender and succulent, contributing both depth and elegance to the finished dish.
When the cooking is complete, the dish is removed from the heat and left to rest briefly, allowing the temperature to drop slightly. This step is important, as it enables the oil released by the salt cod to emulsify with the sauce, binding all the elements together and creating a richer, more harmonious texture. The result is a Salt Cod in Rich Sauce that remains true to the essence of traditional cooking, yet is executed with greater refinement. Each ingredient is treated with care to maximise both its flavour and texture, producing a dish that is at once authentic and contemporary.
